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My entire life, I believed that India was a dangerous country, especially for women. A woman should not travel there alone as it was not safe, was what people kept telling me. Hence, I always said I would go to India only with my Hyderabadi friend Michael whenever our agendas would give us that opportunity.
But here I am, at the age of 27, wandering around the country fearlessly by myself, shaking off unnecessary warnings and prejudices at every step. When I booked my ticket, I made sure my first stop would be Michael’s mother’s place to have a sort of an anchor, but I’d figure it out by myself after that. In fact, I thought I would spend one week with his mother in Delhi, one week in sunny Goa, and then travel on to the next destination. Well, guess what (and this will resonate with many backpackers lol)… I’m still here after one month and a half.
Let me publicly answer a few questions i have received about India to give you a clear guide on how to travel safely as a woman.
In most cases, yes. But as always, my main tip is: ask locals where it is safe to go as a foreign woman. Stick to cities and areas where other travelers go, avoid the late night, and use your head like you would do anywhere else. Everywhere I have been in India, I could walk around freely and relatively safely. Also, half the men in this country are shorter and much skinnier than me. They’re probably more scared of me than I am of them. Just get your workouts in, besties.
Not as much as you probably think. I find Indian people to be rather shy, yet curious when they see a white person. If you’ve been anywhere in North Africa, you’re already well-prepared for vendors shouting and men catcalling and all of that great stuff. But here in India, the noise mostly comes from honking. Here, people quietly STARE. Wherever you go, heads will turn and eyes will follow you down the street. My tip: ignore them, put in your noise cancelling earphones and mind your own business. I’m pretty happy walking around in my own bubble listening to Bad Bunny and not noticing half the stares I get. Alternatively, enjoy the attention and kind curiosity, and smile back at people. You’re Shakira now.
I want to write yes, but only if you’re mindful, cautious, and respectful. In some places you just FEEL like you shouldn’t wear shorts or deep cleavage. In other places you can kind of guess that you should wear a long-sleeve shirt. Always look and listen to your surroundings, and be mindful about where you’re going. Out in nature? Wear whatever. Out in nature in a remote/religious/closed-minded community? Ask locals what you can and can’t wear. Going to a temple? Always wear covering clothing. Walking in a city? Shorts are probably not your best option. Mimic what locals are wearing, such as long dresses or pants.
Indian people are very helpful. But also very inefficient. You can usually trust others when they try to help you (but follow your gut feeling as always!), just know that their help might come in a chaotic format and not be very clear. When I was looking for a bus to Pondicherry from Chennai, for example, a bunch of older Indian men started discussing what I should do and pointed in different directions trying to each give their best solution. In generally, people mean well and will try hard to help you, even if they’re stressing you out while on it lol. Also, know that if you get weird instructions that don’t seem efficient, there is probably a better way, but the person helping simply doesn’t know better. I suggest trying to find a person with proper English and travel experience to help you when it comes to important questions.
Yes. Again, people usually mean well. And drivers are simply trying to make money, so they will happily drop you wherever you want. The Uber app works well in most places, but you can stop a tuktuk on the street, or use InDrive for better prices. Use Google Maps to follow the ride, and if necessary share your live location with a hostel mate.
For your safety, make sure to book a sleeper bus beforehand on apps like RedBus and choose a single bed, preferably on the top row. There are double beds that are sold separately, so a random person could book the bed right next to you, which you don’t want. The top row gives you a little more privacy, as you don’t have people walking around next to you all the time. Buses are quite comfortable and nice, especially from private companies. You get A/C, a curtain to close off the world around you, and enough space to lay or sit. As for trains, you want to book 1st, 2nd or 3rd class. Those are similar to private buses and feel safe. 3d class is the least comfortable one, with 3 beds above each other. Avoid sleeper class, with no privacy and very little space. Note that trains are slower than buses generally.
In most places in India, I felt more comfortable leaving my bag at my table than I do in Brussels. But again: follow your guts and be aware about your surroundings! Right now I am in a rather upscale café and I am about to leave my bag and laptop for a quick visit to the washroom. If the article stops here, then my laptop got stolen. Okay I’m back, point proven.
Wherever I travel, I always book mixed dorms, and that’s not different in India. I’m about 15 hostels far and I have never had a negative experience concerning men in the room. Except for nasty smells. Now that I think of it, it should usually be safe, sure, but sometimes you might want a female dorm or a private room, just for your own mental health and hygiene lol.
If you’re travling India as a couple, know that many hotels do not accept unmarried couples as guests. You really need to look for places that openly state “unmarried couples welcome”. This also applies if you’re dating a local man. On that note, you can surely go ahead and date around, meet some locals on the apps, or maybe fancy another traveler in a hostel. Just be careful with PDA – public display of affection is not widely appreciated. Always read the room. But remember that your Hinge likes will be at 50+ forever if your location is set anywhere in India 🫠.
Your common sense and a touch of assertivity. Some women bring pepperspray or hold keys in their knuckles while walking alone, sure, but I believe that it’s better to avoid situations in which you would need to use those. I prefer to pay attention to what and who is around me, catch the vibe of the place, listen to my gut feeling, and most of all listen to what local friends say. By the latter I mean hostel employees, Indian travelers in the hostel, or perhaps your scooter leaser will give you some advice. Listen to the people who know the place and culture, and keep yourself safe by avoiding danger.
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